Indian jewelry: thewa work

Thewa brooch, 19th century, Chased gold over blue glass, set in gilt silver. The Victoria and Albert Museum

Another type of traditional Indian jewelry that I want to tell you about is thewa (another spelling is theva) work. This technique is unique not only to India but to only one its region - Patrabharh town in Rajasthan. Nowhere else in India this skill and fine expertise exists. It was invented in 1767 by a local goldsmith. The technique has been kept secret since then and knowledge of theva work passed from father to son who start learning it at an early age. At present there are four families of goldsmiths in Partabgarh who carry on with this tradition.

Thewa bracelet detail, 19th century, Metropolitan Museum of Art

The process of making thewa work is detailed, time consuming and intricate, taking up to a month to complete each piece. The design - Hindu mythology or Mughal court scenes, historical events or fauna and flora motifs - is at first punched out of a twenty-four carat very thin gold sheet on a board covered with a layer of lac. The lac is heated and the metal sheet is pressed tightly and firmly into it and peeled off from it after cooling. The gold sheet is laid on top of the glass then and again heated until the metal is fused on to the glass surface. The colours of the glass are traditionally red, green and blue.

Thewa belt buckle, 19th century. source

Thewa ring, late 19th century source

The craft reached its pick during Victorian times. Many traditional theva objects - trays, flower cases, boxes - were sold to British living in or visiting India and were taken to Europe as souvenirs. At the same time brooches, buttons, cuff-links, hairpins and earrings with theva work were specially made for Europeans. Theva units were also set into fans, umbrella handles, perfume bottles, photo frames and it became a status symbol to own such beautiful items. The Indians buyers of theva work preferred belts, necklaces and pendants. Swords, shields, spoons and animal trappings were also decorated with thewa work units.

Thewa brooch, 19th century, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Thewa necklace detail, 19th century  source

Unfortunately as only a handful of craftsmen are left in this area of work this fine art is slowly dying out.

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